As Americans and Canadians expanded west, saw mills were not always available to create neatly planed boards and the first crop of buildings in any new western or northern settlement would be put up with split beam lath. Splitting the timber along its grain greatly improved the laths' strength and durability. and Canada well into the second half of the 19th century. Early American examples featured split beam construction, as did examples put up in rural areas of the U.S. In Canada and the United States the laths were generally sawn, but in the United Kingdom and its colonies, riven or split hardwood laths of random lengths and sizes were often used. Metal lath is available in 27-inch (69 cm) by 8-foot (240 cm) sheets. Each horizontal course of lath is spaced about 3⁄ 8 inch (9.5 mm) away from its neighboring courses. Wood lath is typically about one inch (2.5 cm) wide by four feet (1.2 m) long by 1⁄ 4 inch (6 mm) thick. Each wall frame is covered in lath, tacked at the studs. These are narrow strips of wood, extruded metal, or split boards, nailed horizontally across the wall studs or ceiling joists. The wall or ceiling finishing process begins with wood or metal laths. ( March 2012) ( Learn how and when to remove this template message) Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Please help improve this section by adding citations to reliable sources. But I don't know what type to get.This section does not cite any sources. So again, I'd be looking at something like a 2 or 2 1/4 inch anchor system. Use some sort of brick/masonry anchor that's anchored into the brick, not the plaster. To make sure I grab enough brick, I'm assuming I'd need a 2 or 2 1/4 inch screw.Ģ. Use something like a long Tapcon concrete screw to anchor directly into the brick behind the plaster. So, how do I anchor things onto plaster that's directly over brick? As best I can tell, my options are toġ. The 1.25 inch Walldogs I had laying around didn't grab well and fell out with light stressing (I assume that's because they couldn't grab enough brick due to the plaster overlay). As best I can tell, I don't have that - it's just straight dense materials as far as I can get a drill bit, no gap into which I could put a toggle bolt or anything. I've googled this quite a bit, but everything I've found is focused on plaster over lathe with a gap behind the lathe. I'm reasonably handy although I only know what I know. I don't have a lot of experience working with walls that aren't your standard drywall over 2x4 framing. My problem: I need to anchor some things like relatively heavy wall decor, shelves, and anti-tip devices (we have small kids) onto these walls. So that would be 3/4 inch plaster, then brick. It feels and, based of the chalky reddish residue on my drill bit, looks like I'm hitting brick about 3/4 inch behind the surface of the wall. If there's lathe in there, I haven't been able to find it. As best I can tell, the interior of a number of the original walls is plaster directly on brick. Here's my setup: I recently moved into an old, pre-1900s brick rowhome. Question for the handy Bogleheads out there: How do you mount things to walls when the wall is plaster directly over brick?
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